26

(32 replies, posted in Electric)

DigiTech also makes a good product, especially since most younger folks don't know from tubes.  I bought this one for myself:  http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/ … 4000000000  mainly because it can interface directly with GarageBand on my iPad.  There are also less expensive products in this line as well.  Solidly built and works as advertised.

27

(7 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

Yup, I'm a modder; at least on my sub $1k guitars.  I have a Gretsch 5120 that I:
  Replaced the stock pickups with TV Jones boutique pickups
  Replaced the tuneomatic bridge with a Tru-Arc Stainless Steel bar bridge
  Replaced the stock tuners with Grover locking tuners
  Replaced the Delrin nut with a Micarta 'artificial bone' nut
  Added an engraved jackplate that says, "Exit Only"
  Put a pinup and gretsch decal on the pickguard

But as you say, if you go this route you can resign yourself to the fact that you will never be able to sell the instrument for a price that will cover the cost of labor and hardware.  It's a labor of love.

28

(11 replies, posted in Acoustic)

I think (or my instructor has told me) that it's a bit of both.  Once you know your way around the scales, you can improvise within that structure.  Things like hitting the chord tones on the '1' in a twelve-bar blues, and then just fooling around inside the pentatonic.  Then there's the 'canned' solo, particularly if you want to play something fast, that you can throw in at an opportune moment.

29

(12 replies, posted in Acoustic)

In the book I learned from (The Art of Contemporary Travis Picking by Mark Hanson), the thumb "owns" strings 4,5 &6... EXCEPT on chords with a 4th string root, like D and F, in which case, everything moves up one string.  On a D chord, the thumb will alternate on 3 &4 (or 5) and the index and middle will have strings 2 and 1 respectively.

Getting a talking blues down, especially a really long one like Alice's Restaurant is one of the most difficult things you can learn.  The natural flow of the vocals is a bit arrythmic, so you don't get any real "help" with your playing rhythm from there.

One consolation for you:  I play Alice's Restaurant fingerstyle (which I picked up in the last 6 months or so), and though I've know the lyrics for over 30 years, I still have trouble fitting it into the playing.  Keep after it and you'll get it.  We both will.

A, D and E are all part of the A major scale.  The A-minor pentatonic scale, which is what your basic blues scale is based on, also contains the A, D and E notes.  It works out that just about any note in the pentatonic scale will "work" with those three chords in musical context.  It's nice to hit the chord tones on the beat when the chord changes, as this provides "resolution", but it also gets boring and predictable (from a listening standpoint) very quickly.   If you start on the A (fourth string 7th fret) and just noodle about a bit in the pentatonic, maybe sliding up from the D to the E (hitting the blue note on the slide) in time for the chord change to E, you'll be fine.

Disclaimer--  I'm by no means a soloist, I'm just learning to improvise as well.

32

(9 replies, posted in Acoustic)

You could also play that same set of changes by changing to the A-shape barre after the first G (at the third fret).  Then it becomes 3rd fret E-shape, 2nd fret A-shape, 3rd fret A-shape, 2nd fret, 1st fret, open A.

33

(18 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Books:  Bruce Buckingham's "Guitar Basics" and Jamie Andreas' "The Principles of Correct Practice for Guitar"

Practice EVERY day.  20 minutes at first, and work up from there.

Also, get a metronome and a cheap recorder of some type, and record your practice once a week.  In three months, go back an listen to how far you've come.

34

(14 replies, posted in Electric)

I tried a lot of brands, types and gauges, and I like D'darrio nickel 10's on my solidbody guitars, and TI flatwound 11's on my hollows.  In the end, it all comes down to what feels and sounds best to you.

35

(7 replies, posted in Acoustic)

I also have a Breedlove Atlas (Studio) DM-25, and I actually like it better than a Taylor I have that cost $300 more.  I've had no opportunity to check on their customer service, though.

36

(33 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Blasphemy!  ;-)

To tell the truth, I think he did pretty well with one and a half.  If he'd had both, no one would ever be able to keep up!

37

(58 replies, posted in Electric)

What Buzzwagon said.  A Telecaster is not a Jazzmaster is not a Les Paul is not a Gretsch.  Woods, pickups, solid, semi-hollow, hollow, pickup placement, bridge style; all will affect the tone.  It helps to know what kind of music you want to play-- there are certain guitars that are pretty much synonymous with certain styles of music.  Not to say you can't play surf with a Les Paul, but it's much easier to get the 'surf tone' with a Jazzmaster, or a B.B. King blues tone with a semi-hollow.

38

(33 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Well, there's that guy in my avatar; that's Django Rheinhardt.  Unknown Hinson is right up there as well.

39

(10 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Welcome baysum!

Tip #1, practice every day.

Tip #2, go slowly; I mean really, stupidly slowly, and watch your hands to make sure you're placing your fingers properly.

Tip #3, if you find your fingers muffling strings (and you will), wiggle them to get the strings sounding--don't try to just muscle through it by pressing harder.

Tip #4, USE A METRONOME.  If you are human, your timing sucks.  Use a metronome religiously to help keep time, and tap your foot too.

Tip #5, record yourself.  Get a cheap recorder of some sort, and record a practice session every week.  Go back in a few months and listen to them, you'll be amazed at how far you've come.

Good luck, stick with it, and don't get discouraged.

40

(8 replies, posted in Acoustic)

That's interesting, harpfreak.  If I'm going from Bm to G, I play both as barre chords (they're on the same fret, same shape; just move down one string) which is a very quick and easy change for me.  If you work those barres as chord pairs (play one then the other, back and forth, for a minute or two every day), all those changes become second nature very quickly.

But you're right, the choice of shape depends strongly on what comes before and after.  The variation that I use the most seems to be playing the open E with either index, middle and ring (as everyone learns it first) or playing it with middle, ring and pinky if there's a barre chord following.

41

(17 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Baldguitardude is describing a "long A" moved up two frets.  I just play it as a barre chord with index and middle fingers, like all us mutants.

42

(8 replies, posted in Acoustic)

In many cases, barres will make your chord changes easier in the long run.  For instance, in one of my favorite songs, "Codemonkey" by Jonathan Coulton, there's a sequence A/E, A, B7, G#, C#m, B, A which come fairly quickly.  Since you have to play A/E as an E shape up at the 6th fret, changing to the straight A is as easy as laying your index finger down on the 5th.  Then you can slide up two (and lift the pinky) for the B7, drop back down 3 frets (and put the pinky down again) to the G#, keep the same shape but down one string to the C#m, down one more to the dreaded B (which I play barred with both the index and middle fingers),  then lift the index and drop two for the open A. 

Barre chords are a vital part of your development as a player, and they make many things really easy; but it will seem like torture for the time it will take to build up the strength and technique to make them possible.

43

(19 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Something no one has yet mentioned, is you shouldn't try to "muscle" your way into the chord.  It's not so much how hard you're pressing down on the string so much as WHERE you're pressing it.  When you're sounding those individual strings, if one is muted just wiggle the muting finger around a bit instead of squeezing harder.

44

(17 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Chord pairs help.  Pick any chord, play it and then switch to another chord.  Rinse and repeat.  When I was at this stage, I would pick a chord that I had no trouble with, and a chord I wanted to learn, and then just go back and forth between them for a minute or two (at like four strums for each chord).  Pick another chord you know, and do the same for another couple of minutes.  Your fingers will pick up the new shape quickly.  Also, work with a metronome, set slowly enough that you don't have trouble with the change, and gradually speed it up.

Good luck!

45

(7 replies, posted in Acoustic)

I think you'll find that your stamina will increase massively if you relax the fretting hand during the chord changes.  Also, relaxing the fretting hand and then grabbing the same shape in a different place (slowly at first, and then gradually speeding up) will help with both your fretting accuracy and your changing speed.  So, yes you should relax the fingers during the changes rather than attempting to muscle through it.

icecubetray3pak wrote:

I'm a "long time listener, first time caller".  I haven't played in decades and am just starting again.  In regards to the Bensonp tip about learning 1st position chords with the 234 fingers,  I would like to repectfully disagree (just to show my Irish).  While it makes sense if you're going to transition to barre chords, if you're strumming the 1st position chords, the pinky finger is the only link to the sus4 and the 7th and also the "walk down" on the low (E A )strings.
I like to keep my index finger in contact the G string as much as possible.  Every instruction book or fingering chart has the index finger on the G string for the E and the D, but not for the A.  If you play the A chord with the index finger on the G, bird finger on the D and ring finger on the B, all you have to do is slide/pivot the index finger.  (Play Gloria by Them and see how easy it is). 
If you're using the barre for electric rock or blues, you still use the pinky to do the chunka-chunka Chuck Berry lick.
Anyway, I think I got carried away.

It's a context thing for me.  If I know I'm going to change to a bar chord next, I'll play the open chord with the 234; otherwise just use the standard fingering (particularly if you're doing the folky "wiggly finger" stuff on your sus chords.  Learning the open chords both ways, so you can dive-bomb the changes to and from either one will really open up your playing.

47

(8 replies, posted in Acoustic)

With a metronome, you practice keeping time; you also improve your speed and accuracy on scales and licks.  Start out alternate picking with the metronome on a REALLY slow speed (say 40 clicks per minute), and do whatever you're working on at one pick for every two clicks on the metronome.  When you can do it 3 times in a row without mistakes, change to one pick per click, then move up to 60 clicks per minute, then 80, then 100.  Go back to to 60, and do two picks per click (eighth notes), and work your way back up to 100 clicks per minute.  go back to 60, and do four picks per click (sixteenth notes). 

The above exercise really helps with scales and such.  When you're working on particular licks, you will need to look at the music and figure out what the timing is for each note, and work the piece one bar at a time starting at the END, and working toward the beginning.  If the piece is in eighths, count it as 1 & 2 & 3 & 4 &, set your metronome really slow to start (so slowly that you don't make ANY mistakes), and work on slowly getting up to tempo.  If you teach yourself to do with no mistakes from the beginning, you'll find that once you get up to tempo, you won't make mistakes there either; your fingers will just DO it.

So, start SLOW, don't speed up until you can do it flawlessly, and work backwards from the end of the piece.

Good luck.

48

(11 replies, posted in Acoustic)

If you're having wrist issues, you might try holding the guitar in "classical position" and bring the headstock up to about eye level.  It might seem awkward at first, but your wrist will thank you and it's much easier to apply the force necessary to get the barre to work.  Another trick is to practice those barre's up around the ninth fret; much easier to get a decent sound there, and as you build up strength you can easily work your way back toward the nut.  Practice each day until your hand is getting close to cramping, but don't go past the point of pain.

49

(11 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Do a Google search on "guitar left hand stretching", and you'll get about a brazillion hits for exercises to improve your reach.  Take it easy on the stretching, though; it's easy to injure yourself.  Other than that, thumb position is by far the most important factor in reach.

50

(9 replies, posted in Acoustic)

What you want is this:  http://www.amazon.com/Art-Contemporary- … 0936799005  Highly recommended.  Be aware that if you do the exercises, it will take about a year to get all the way through the book.  There is a companion volume by the same author, called "The Art of Solo Fingerpicking" which is also highly recommended; I can't tell you how long that one takes, since I'm still working on it.

One thing to keep in mind is that you shouldn't get attached to a certain pattern for a whole song.  It's very worthwhile to vary the patterns on different passages, and even with chord changes.  Try different things, and then go with what sounds good to you.