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Oh, as for A&L being the entry line for Godin.....  Yea, sort of.... Godin is broke down sort of like this: Art & Lutherie, Seagull, Norman, & then Simon & Patrick....  More or less in that order though Norman and S&P are pretty even and Seagull has stepped up the last few years with their artist models... There is a lot of crossover in the brands though... The A&L spruce or cedar is the same guitar as the Norman B18 or B20, the S&P spruce6/cedar6, and the seagull S6... They are all the same guitar except the Seagull has a 1.8 inch neck and the others are 1.72 inch. A&L is the only division to have offered a laminate model. It's a good one though and at $80, even if it is laminate, it's a steal and you got it at about half what they sale for used

Hey Z,  Congrats man!  What does the label say? Art & Lutherie labels there guitars by the top wood. They have both cedar and spruce models.... They also had (recently discontinued) a solid laminate model labeled as Wild Cherry. I believe this model had the painted on rosette but they also used it on some earlier solid topped models. The laminate is a quality 3 ply made up of either Wild Cherry/Birch/Wild Cherry or Wild Cherry/Mahogany/Wild Cherry depending on model and year.   1.72 nut width, 24.5 scale length, tusq nut and saddle.... I'm a big fan of Godin guitars and know the company pretty well if you have any specific questions fire away

Here's a quick breakdown of how their serial numbers work...

Godin started using an 8 digit number system in 1993 that works like this:

The first 2 digits: production year
3rd and 4th digits: production week
5th digit: production day (ex: 1 = Monday, 2 = Tuesday... etc...)
Last 3 digits: number of guitar built during that production week.

If the top is questionable, you can look inside with a mirror and check the grain from the bottom since the top is black.... Wild cherry has more of a flatsawn appearance where you'll see the straight quartersawn grain if it's cedar or spruce.

Yep that's me (figured the "sup bra" would give it away ) Glad you tried us out and hope you stick around Lots of friendly folks hanging around with good advice

Very nice Roger! 

As for electrifying it... How're your others electrified? Do they have pre-amps or do you already have a preamp that you can feed through? By shadow, Are you talking the brand or as reference to a under bridge transducer set up? I hear people use "shadow" for both
You have a few options here... You could go USP, But it can be hard to find ones that sounds good and fits well for a 12'r, especially if you have to go the ordering route.  I'd personally stay away from cutting into the sides for electronics, But that's more just personal tastes than anything else... I like my electronics hidden I'd probably go with the under bridge transducer set up myself... Most run hot enough to play without a pre-amp anyway or you could always pick one up later if you feel it needs a little more umphhh. UBT's are funny though. The smaller the transducer the brighter they tend to sound, so I'd look for a larger size for a 12 so it highlights more of the bass and mids. K&K makes an excellent 3 transducer set up for 12's that works really well and doesn't need a pre-amp (although it does help) but they run around $100... You'd also need to measure your bridge plate to make sure all 3 transducers would fit. Using 3 separates the sound more and helps prevent it from becoming muddy or all blending in together and I think this is key for a 12 string because there is already so much going on.... Sorry if the post is jumping around some I'm just kinda thinking out loud here    

As a side note I have a Shadow brand UBT in my DY-50 and it sounds good for the money (about $60) but haven't ever heard one on a 12 so I can't say how well they would perform in that application...

Rich Robinson plays in open D tuning to get a loose feel for the strings, but you're right, most transcriptions published are in open E. The song was originally done in Open d but capo'd on 2nd so yea, you can do it either way... I think the timbre of the tone matches best as done originally though.

Glad everyone enjoyed the vid It was a fun evening...Fom what little I can remember

MK, Believe it or not this guy is the karaoke king He goes to the bars on karaoke night, but he doesn't perform solo... He get's up on stage behind everyone else and sings back up for them!

Kaps, Don't know if I can get the file or not... It's on my old laptop and it's not functioning very well... It took several tries just to get it to stay up long enough to record this. As for the ummmm.... Listen to the background noise Lots of coughing going on...

I sent you the file via email

I always liked Flat wound Mediums (13-56's) for that strong but mellow tone... Not too much of an electric player though... So Others may know better   Welcome to the forums! -Pix

I'm bad for changing instruments.... The past 2 weeks I haven't played the guitar much but have been hitting the uke and kalimba pretty hard instead. Played with the drums a lot this weekend also... My main instrument is always guitar but I go through periods where I focus on others for a few weeks just to keep them fresh.
  As for songs... They hit me all the time! My wife even picks on me for playing in my sleep She says I lay there and start humming and then I'll start air fingering chords and strumming/or picking them I keep a guitar by the bed though and that's what I'm almost always doing before bed and I always get a few tunes in before I head out in the morning to...

Congrats man I can only imagine how excited you are! From what I've seen of your covers, you've earned it

Archtop electric makes all the difference!! I'm using a lightly built solid wood acoustic. I could see how this could be feasible with electrics though

As for keeping it away... I seldom play standing up cause it's hard to do (minimize contact) strapped in. So I usually use a playing chair or good barstool with a back. It's easy enough to keep just a little distance from you and the guitar that way, at least with an acoustic. The narrowness of an electric body would make it more difficult to steady the instrument... Also I imagine you don't harm the tone by touching it much with an electric since most of your tone is from your pickups and effects.. At least you wouldn't be able to really tell when plugged in. All the best man! -Chris

As a side note I also like to play in classical position if I'm going to be playing barre for prolonged periods of time. The position seems to offer less fatigue and easier stretches