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<table border="0" align="center" width="90%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td class="SmallText"><b>alvee33 wrote on Mon, 15 January 2007 16&#58;39</b></td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
Hey, I should hopefully be getting a new guitar in the next few months. Since the one I have is very old(20 years+) and second hand, I was wondering if anyone knew if it is necessary to get a new acoustic "set up" when you buy. I know it is essential to get an elecrtic set up but since most acoustics have a fixed bridge is this still needed or is it ok just to buy straight from the store and strum away?

I realise this may seem like a daft question but as I have said before, I always feel like such a prat in music stores.

Al
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To Alvee33 to put it in your own words, your question is not daft. You show good sense seeking advice on your next purchase. An acoustic like an electric guitar can have an action set up. The set up is similar with the exception of a fixed bridge as mentioned.

To set up an acoustic guitar your neck will be straight edged and adjusted to the gauge of strings you prefer. To lower the action the nut filed down and recutt and in some cases the bridge saddle will be filed down also.

I do not recommend doing an acoustic set up yourself as previously suggested send it to a qualified luthier or guitar tech. (acoustic guitars are not as forgiving as electrics when you break a part and need to replace it).

As for the comment of your 20 year old second hand guitar depending on the manufacture and the type of wood that it was constructed of it is now just seasoned. (the wood has aged and the tonal qualities are at there best).

To answer your original question is it essential to get an action set up on a new acoustic guitar. Usually not they are presetup at the factory. It is going to depend on you and if youwant the guitar tailored to suit your playing style.

Good luck.

Bootleger

Bootlegger guitars. <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_cool.gif" border=0 alt="Cool">

I understand your statment now. The tension of the heavier gauge strings was pulling your bridge forward. By placing the shim in between the trem block and the body cavity it relieved the stress of the string tension.

This still would not correct your action height. (I am not trying to demean you in any way, I am trying to help trouble shoot your problem and come up with a solution for repair. That you may do yourself and not cost an arm and a leg).

A possible solution to relieve some of the string tension on your bridge would have been to tighten the spring block screws drawing the string block closer to the body. (you don't need to now do to the trem block shim).

This would have pulled the rear of the bridge back towards the strap end of the body lowering the bridge rise.

If your looking for Fender specs go to their website @ fender.com. There are free down loads and tutorials.

I suggest that you drill a hole (1/8" diameter) in your trem block shim and get a sheet metal screw (about a # 8x 7/8 inch, about a buck at Lowe's).

You can screw it in when you want to pull your trem block out. If it's a tight fit you don't want to pry it out with a screw driver and chance damaging your guitar body.

Good luck,

Bootleger <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_cool.gif" border=0 alt="Cool">

Bootlegger guitars.

<table border="0" align="center" width="90%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td class="SmallText"><b>fourr3al wrote on Fri, 12 January 2007 00&#58;23</b></td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
Hi,

I also added some thicker strings and had the same issue. I added a shim and now it works great. I will say that my strat stayed in tune even with the thicker strings. My issue was that the bridge was raised too much. Now with the shim, it sounds great and stays in tune even better.
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fourr3al,

Per your quote above you added a shim, are you speaking of a wood shim in between your trem block and body cavity? Strats have adjustable saddles if your bridge was to high why didn't you just lower the saddles? Just curious.

Bootleger.

<table border="0" align="center" width="90%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td class="SmallText"><b>SteveForbertFan wrote on Sun, 07 January 2007 05&#58;09</b></td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
Hello Everyone,

My name is Steve........and, Um,......I'm a Guitaraholic.  <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_eek.gif" border=0 alt="Shocked">

Whew...that was tough.  <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_smile.gif" border=0 alt="Smile">

I have an Ibanez AW 12 NT acoustic that I was given by a friend to replace my first beater (A Bently)

I have an Epiphone LP Honeyburst (Xmas gift) currently being set up by Rich Beck in Phoenix AZ

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Steve welcome to the club. Per your quote above you mentioned that you guitar is currently getting a set up (setting the intonation, string height, straighting or relieving the truss rod, oiling the fret board and putting on new strings) "GREAT job". <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_biggrin.gif" border=0 alt="Very Happy">

You also mentioned that you have an acoustic guitar you were given before you got your epiphone LP (you got a real friend). Your use to an acoustic action so when you get your PROPERLY set up electric you will definitely notice the difference.

You will notice that you are faster on the neck. I repaired and did set up an epiphone LP for a friend's son. He leaned it on the front of his amp an it fell over and snapped his head stock off. I also replaced the pickups with a Zakk Wilde set of EMG's. It played good and sounded great.

It is a good transition guitar from acoustic to a first electric guitar. (Although I preffer Michael Kelly patirot series LP style guitars. The price and quality are good.) It will help you progress as a guitarist and learn what you like in a guitar as to prepare you for your next guitar.(Yes you will want more guitars!).

Once again you showed good sense in getting your guitar set up. Alot of people just buy a guitar and play it for a while and then it becomes a corner kicker. They don't want to play it because the action sucks.

Good luck.

Bootleger <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_twisted.gif" border=0 alt="Twisted Evil">

Bootlegger guitars

His buget is $1500.00 he will not find a new Gibson LP in his price range unless it is stolen or a LP studio on sale. SPAMINATOR brought up a good point about what he is going to play his new guitar through.

The selections are valid but will also eat up most if not all his buget.

Look into a Fender Deville 2x12 or 4x10 there good amps ($725 to $800) you'll still have half your money and quality amp to boot.

You can find Gibson SG's on sale for $800 to $900 so you'll be not much over buget.

You can also cruise pawn shops and look for a used amp & guitar. If you don't know what to look for Ie: trouble with amps or electric guitars take a more experienced friend who can trouble shoot for you. This way you won't get taken on a great deal that will cost you triple your buget in repairs.

You can also buy a botique guitar (LP Knock off that is of good quality) and Hot rod it, always an option. (I like the Michael Kelly Patirot series myself, beautiful woods, well made and a price range from $385.99 to $499.99) You could buy gibson 490's & 590's pickups or any other brand, GFS,Seymour Duncan's, DiMarzio's or EMG Actives (Zakk wilde set).

Go to the Guitar Center or Sam Ash (if you live in the USA) and play the guitar you chose through the type of amp you want.

Good luck

Bootleger <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_twisted.gif" border=0 alt="Twisted Evil">

Bootlegger guitars.

The vibration you speak of can be caused by various reasons. Check all the screws (strap buttons, machine head knobs & bushings on the machine heads) tighten them snuggly as not to strip them. It could also be string vibration where the nut was filed down to low causing your strings to hit the frets when strummed. You might go to a heavier gauge string if it is just string vibration. They will be a little harder on the fingers until you get use to them.

You can also have a new nut put on (take it to a qualified guitar tech or luthier) unless you can do the repair your self. Also check inside of the body the truss rod ajusting nut may be loose.

Good luck,

Bootleger

Bootlegger guitars. <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_cool.gif" border=0 alt="Cool">

Take a look at the michael kelly patriot series before you buy an Epiphone. There cheaper (cost wise not in quality) ands you get more bang for your buck.  Go to the website michealkelly.com or to the sam ash website for a look.

Good luck,

Bootleger.

Bootleger guitars. <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_cool.gif" border=0 alt="Cool">

No problem glad I could help. Try www.stewmac.com there are some shop repairs listed and the project guitar website. You'll find alot of helpful information. Or if you have any question that I may be able to answer send me a private message and I'll send you my email address. Also don't use WD-40 it stays wet and will collect dust turning in to grime. Use contact cleaner (made for electronic use) and on you machine heads use graphite.

Bootleger. <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_cool.gif" border=0 alt="Cool">

I was at Sam Ash music the other day helping my nephew pick out a bass an seen a practice neck. It was an octave with machine heads. I don't remember what brand but if your handy you can find a cheap neck and fashion a string holder on the body side to hold the strings making your own.

I just jumped on the Sam Ash website it is called a shreddneck. It sells for $44.95.

The transition is basically the same as playing acoustic. The difference is the scale of the guitar neck also the action. The electric will present more tones based upon the type of pickups in the guitar and the various settings and type of amp you play through.

The benefits of playing an acoustic first is hand stregnth, it is usually tuffer on your hands playing acoustics (is it cheap, modrate or Taylor type acoustic). You'll also notice that you have more speed on an electric guitar versus an acoustic because of the heavier gauge strings and action height.

Play both types of guitars you'll notice the time you have put in practicing the acoustic when your playing the electric.

Good luck.

Bootleger

Bootlegger guitars.

<table border="0" align="center" width="90%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td class="SmallText"><b>lenderiscool wrote on Mon, 18 December 2006 19&#58;17</b></td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
I personally change my strings once a month

but that's probably because they begin to get harder to keep in tune from playing my guitar everyday for about 3 hours.

and i use martin strings...can anyone suggest any other type that last  <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_eek.gif" border=0 alt="Shocked"> super long? <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_eek.gif" border=0 alt="Shocked">
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Note: to newbies his strings go dead (flat) because he "PRACTICES". <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_twisted.gif" border=0 alt="Twisted Evil">  Otherwise the only way to legnthen the life of your strings is going to be your style of play.

Finger picking, light strum or hammer handed. Buy your favorite strings by the box when there on sale.

Good luck

Bootleger  <img src="images/smiley_icons/icon_cool.gif" border=0 alt="Cool">