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when I'm going in and out of barre chords, I've learned a different set of fingerings for the normal chords that would be those I use for barre minus the first finger. The first is kept ready to barre with when sliding up the neck

thumb schmumb...  far too many resources tell you to put it at the back of the neck, yet everybody playing steel strung guitars in videos, on stage or on telly has it round up the top... the only ones I do see keeping it behind the neck are playing a different instrument, the classical guitar... which has a wider neck... why this obsession from teachers to keep the thumb behind the neck beats me...

I suppose strictly speaking, I don't actually use Fast-Fret, but my own mix applied using an old Fast-Fret stick...

anyway, if it's good enough for this guy (Snail's Pace Slim of "The Hamsters") He refills his stick using WD-40!!!

http://www.thehamsters.co.uk/equipment/misc.php

then it's good enough for me...

mind you, I'd rather use a proprietary blend on an expensive guitar cos then you have someone to blame... YMMV

welcome to the site...

yeah, they do go out of tune fast when new... and high default nuts cause them to play sharp, but if yours came with nylgut strings, then I'm expecting it to be a pretty decent Uke and not a Mahalo or other equivalent "starter" Uke.

Not that I've got much wrong with Mahalos, but you have to ensure you get the ones with geared tuners and not the friction pegs... geared tuners are far easier to tune and more stable when playing...

were there any plans for that cigar box resonator? on line howto guide?

have they changed their headstock shape recently? Mine is a lot more like a Fender headstock but with a slight hook instead of the ball...

http://www.catalogo.tv/prd/sst62k3ts_6.jpg

that ain't actually my guitar, just an image I found of the same headstock...

The Open D with the little finger fretting the G on the first string is usually referred to as a Dsuss4... ie there is no third being played so it's neither major or minor...

My take on D add G is that you fret the G on the fat 6th string along with the normal D and allow the finger that's fretting the G to mute the A string so it doesn't sound although you can let it play without any dischord...

same with the DaddF#, you have to ensure you mute the A string but can get away with it

personally, I would have notated it as a D/G and the other one as a D/F#

but some people really freak out at the prospect of slash chords

can a bassist and his gear fit in the vocalist's car?

no, the vocalist's car is full with just the microphone, stand and towel...

funny how there's always room to squeeze a vocalist in to a bassists car though...

I always try to play in G... then I have easier B minor barre chords and a nice easy F#dim

if the song isn't in an easy key, then I capo to get to playing easier shaped chords... the transpose feature is very helpful for this

that's why a lot of country artists use a capo on two or three... means they can stick to using easy chords

If a song has a weird key and awkward chords, you'll probably find that it's really played with a capo when you check it out on youtube.

I am impressed...

I've added that to my wish list...

problem for me out here in the sticks in UK is it's very difficult to get my hands on one to actually try before buying...

so I'd have to buy sight unseen and hope for a sensible returns policy, or else dedicate a day to traveling in to a big city to try one out.

strange... my Tanglewood TW502 (Gibson ES335 clone) has a "tunomatic" style bridge but it's radiused already (no-name OEM pattern bridge)... can't adjust the individual heights though, just up or down at each end using the wheels.