As long as we're on the topic of frets...

I'm with Phill on this one, if it is up there at something like fret 22 or 24 (where most of us never wander in acoustic-land) I would think that dressing the end that catches with a small file would solve that problem.  But then again with the light gauge strings you are using, a bit of a shim under the bridge would also be a good alternative as your setup may be a bit low for the lower string tension of the lighter strings.  Are you really aggressive with a pick?  Because there should be a good bit of fret wire beyond the string (outside) or I would wonder if the bridge was set off-center.  Most of mine have 3/16-1/4 inch before the end bevel (including #23) and I would think it darn hard to "bend" the string far enough to hang up under normal strumming or picking.

I'm curious....

Zurfl, if you have reduced your strings to 10's you will have reduced the string tension and the neck is likely to have arched back slightly. Look along it (or preferably use a long straight edge) to check it is true. My guess is that slight back arch is the problem and a slight release of the truss rod tension will do the trick.

The other thing is there may be a spur on the outside edge of the fret which need filing off.

I have had this happen a time or two myself.

Roger

Sounds like your fret board has shrunk a bit, if there's a fret coming unseated and/or protruding from the edge. A bit of dressing (filing) should be a quick answer. Can you get a clamp on top of it and under the neck, or is it too far up? An overnight clamping will often re-seat a fret, where tapping won't.

Long term, you may need a humidifier in your guitar room.

For most guitar work and frets included either use a good   Luthier or an experienced guitar tech. Just because you can find the the products does not mean most guitar owners would have the same experience doing their work. Guitars of any type are  expensive . Why do frets and tech work without using an expert? I