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I'm kinda leaning towards Geo's thinking about the budget.  Really most sound cards in PCs will handle recording what ever you want to put to them in full CD quality... the trick is getting all that hardware connected to the Computer in an organized manner.  Really just a little mixer that provides phantom power for the mics that require it, and a few cables, along with the Cubase software you already own should get you well started.  You already have all the stuff to make the sounds, so it should just be a matter of doing some track on track recording, a little editing (software) and seeing what comes out.

I use a small powered mixer myself (although I'm not doing much recording presently) but it does double duty as a stage mixer as well, without having to trip over yet another piece of equipment.

Take Care and Have Fun with it!
Doug

Hi Z,

  Built a few electrics or resurrected would be a better term over the years, but the closest to doing an acoustic was a dulcimer a few years ago.  Really it is just advanced woodworking.... the impressive ones are the guys who start out with a log and come up with a fiddle.  If you think of it as really dainty furniture, it doesn't seem so bad.

Take Care;
Doug

Correctamundo Cameron.

The CAGED system uses those "open" chord patterns with a barre to finger any chord anywhere up the neck by merely barring the fret of the lowest note fretted in the previous chord pattern, and fretting the next chord shape.

Example:  play open C in the first position, the next C chord would be at Barre 3rd fret and finger an open A chord pattern, the next C would be Barre 5th fret and play G pattern etc.   The G & D shapes are the two "toughies" because of the stretch, but can help to keep you in the same region of the neck.

Take Care;
Doug

Greetings, and Welcome to Chordie!

  Well to somewhat answer your question;  If you have written an original tune and would like to post it here on Chordie, you will want to check out the section labled "Songwriting".  One thing about Chordie that you should be made aware of though is that Chordie does not host any music or Tabs on it's servers.  Chordie is only an indexing service that locates and links music that is available on other hosting sites via the net.... pretty much taking the work out of locating them yourself, and formatting the results into a common chopro format for uniformity.

  Another thing that makes Chordie unique, is the huge community of members that are here to support and help you along in your quest for information about the lifelong hobby of music.  The forum is partitioned into several areas in which you may post comments, or questions and will surely get useful responses from someone or everyone.

  Visit often and jump right in, you'll make friends right away guaranteed!

Take Care;
Doug

Hi Roger,

  From your description, the first thing that came to mind was a sweet tomato aspic... sounds yummy!

  Just up the road a bit from us here is a farm that processes all kinds of specialty foods, and they make a Habenero Pepper Marmalade that is really nice.  You'd think a pepper that hot would be painful to spread on your morning Croissant, but the sugar content takes the fire right out of them.

Take Care;
Doug

Hi Z, Congrats on your new acquisition!

  I had checked out your post earlier, but I have no experience with the Acoustic Behringer Amps.  I do have a couple of the Vtone amps by them and have nothing but good things to say about them, so would expect the same kind of satisfaction potential.

  The only beef I have is the plug-in is plastic, so you do have to use some care and not yank your instrument cord around.  Tying it to the carry handle seems to work well, and not hanging the cord on the amp plug when not in use.  It's my understanding that the plug is soldered to the mainboard, and it could be a hassel to replace if it gets abused.

  Have fun with it and enjoy yerself!

Take Care;
Doug

Hi Tony,

  Top is right on, Guitarpix knows his stuff and if you could hook up with him I'm sure you'd get good advise.

  I'm lucky enough to have several small shops with experienced Luthiers near me, and over the years I've become friends with a few.  Most towns will have at least one "closet" Luthier living in the area (as in, not having a retail shop) but meeting up with them can be tough.  If you have a tavern nearby with live music, you might wander up during a break and ask for a referral from one of the band members..... most musicians are friendly and will tell you the good and the bad.

Take Care;
Doug

Hi Sambor1, and Welcome to Chordie!

  Are you looking for a PA, or an amp for your electric guitar?  Granted many smaller PA systems will accept a 1/4 TS input and allow you to plug your instrument into it, but generally an amp will give you many effects and a lot more power depending on how elaborate you want to get.  Some amps will also accept XLR inputs and you can run a microphone through along with a guitar.

  A bit more information on what you hope to achieve would aid in getting recommendations and opinions that can be more helpful.

  Once again, Welcome to Chordie, and I'm sure you will find answers to just about anything via the forums here.  Lots of good people, and plenty of experienced users available to help you.

Take Care;
Doug

Hi Bjgolf54, and nice to hear from ya!

  Sorry I don't have any first hand info on using that model, but looked at one of the Yamaha PA systems last year or so thinking along the same lines as you.....  thought it was a bit spendy for my pocketbook at the time.  Still Yamaha builds good systems, I decided to go another route though and am very happy.  Opted for a Behringer powered mixer and a couple of good sized stage monitor cabinets.  The whole thing set us back less than $350 USD, and seems to do the job nicely.  The Eurorack mixer has 5 inputs each with effects and will accept instruments or mics and RCA inputs, cranks out 60Watts and I have no complaints so far.

Good Hunting, and
Take Care;
Doug

Hi Pix,

  Actually that is a very good question.  I've been using traditional finishes for something like 30+ years, both in the Antique Restoration and even Automotive fields.  Surprisingly, the new CFC Free waterborne products are very comfortable over the top of most finishes and if adhesion is questionable, a sanding sealer (clear) which also acts as an adhesion promoter is available to precoat.  We are talking about VERRRY thin coats of product.... to give you an idea, 10-12 coats when dry/cured is like 1 mil in film thickness.  The Stewmac product I used recently is a nitrocellulose base specifically formulated for wood musical instruments.... not like casting resin poured over a burl tabletop somewhere.  I've had good results with similar stuff over acrylics, alkyds, polyesters, polyurethanes, and epoxies.  Surface prep is paramount, as you want your spray to flow without "fisheyes" and you have to get the feel of shooting it as you cannot shoot for gloss, it needs a "half wet" coating which will level out over the first half of the drying time.  If I was shooting a bike or a car, I'd think I was going too dry and would expect to see an "orangepeel" result. Water borne coatings tend to respond to gravity, and threaten to slide off onto the floor at slightest provocation. So light coats are best.

  Personally I use a gravity feed HVLP with 3-5 lbs pressure at the gun through a .014 tip.  The really nice thing is the long open time which lets you get in there with a sharp probe and extract any foreign objects without losing the coverage locally, and not having to wear a full blown respirator to filter out the solvents.  No fire hazard, and better for the environment.  Mind you a line air drier is still a good idea, and dedicated air hose that has never ever seen the dumb end of any shop air tool which might contribute a bit of oil into the mix is a good thing. My paint hoses have a strange fitting that only fit the line drier/regulator on the one end, and the only things that will plug in the other is one of my paint guns.....  Tru-flate is for impacts, ratchets, grinders, and brute force tools....  Johnston fittings are for paint!

  Thanks for asking and sorry for the lengthy answer.  I really enjoy this stuff and tend to get carried away.

Take Care;
Doug

Hi Badeye,

  If it is in fact a lacquer, you have a few choices as about the only thing that will cut the original finish and possibly give you grief would be another lacquer.  Something that I have used with good results is a water borne lacquer available from stewmac.com.  It comes tinted and in aerosol in case you aren't too familiar with a spray gun.  It does require that you rough up the existing finish a bit with something like 400 grit (by their instructions), but I like to go even finer and use 800 wet sanding for that.  There is less chance of going though the original finish and does the job nicely.  Most important is to completely remove any contaminants like waxes or oils to get good adhesion.

  Several light coats will be needed to get the color even and as dark as you like, and then several coats of clear will put the finish on it. Allow 2 hours dry time between coats. You will not be able to sand imperfections out of the color coats, but can on the top clears, which then can be buffed and polished to desired gloss.  I usually finish sand with 2000 grit wet with a block to perfection and it does take a bit of time.

The finish should be allowed to cure about 150 hours before attempting any sanding on the new surface, or polishing.

Have fun with it and it should come out great!

Take Care;
Doug

Hi Jared,

  Just guessing here, but it might be that the tabber was using a double stroke to indicate a bend rather than a slide.  Like pick 12, bend to 13, relax to 12, pick 12 and slide to 15... etc.  Might give that a try and see if it sounds correct.  Most keyboards don't have the correct symbols for music, so sometimes improvisation is required.

Take Care;
Doug