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cytania wrote:Just restrung the Brawley with D'Addario regular lights 0.010 - 0.046 and checked intonation. E B G D are now true but A is only just and E is still a bit sharp even with the bridge right back at maximum. Any ideas?
Can I compensate but getting a thicker string gauge in future? Time for a luthier? Learnt alot from this guitar and my pitch awareness has come on alot or am I getting oversensitive?
Not a trained luthier but do know my way around guitars. What type of brige or tremolo do you have. Either way get your tuner and hit an harmonic octave on your twelveth fret of the string (b & high e although not simaltaniously). Turn the screw on the saddle of that string until it come in to tune and repeat to the other string that is out. Your guitar is not set up for that gauge of strings that's why your out of intonation. If you you need a hand email me.
Bootlegger.
Bootlegger guitars.
gitaardocphil wrote:Hello Cytania.
About too many relics (in particular Fender Stratocaster) I wrote once a topic. How to find a decent guitar in the FENDER FOREST.
I remember when I went to school (me being 14-17 years old), that there was, at that time, the biggest guitar store in Belgium, and we walked in that store, looking around (they let us play maybe once, I was also not playing at that time).
They had a lot of acoustic guitars, but when you are 15 years old, you are more interessed in an electric guitar.
The choice was very simple back in 1970-1971: you had a FENDER STRATOCASTER, and a Fender TELECASTER (a lot cheaper compared to a Stratocaster), in different colours, and the second was the GIBSON. You could choose a Gibson Les Paul Standard, a Custom, and an SG.
If you go to a guitar store now: you are not longer able to count the different Fenders, not speaking about the Mexican Fenders. You have as starter, the good old classic Fender Stratocaster, once you spotted this guitar, the problems start. I am a proud owner of an original Fender Strat made in 1964, and there are moments, having so many guitars, that this 25.000$ fender should be sold, and buy a relic, or a Artist Model. I really don't understand Fender: they produce a lot in Mexico 'are they better???? and in the "fender department " you find RELICS, HIGHWAY series, TRIBUTE Fenders: CLAPTON, JEFF BECK, KNOPFLER, SRV.. How can a guitar lover, let's say a Fender lover choose and buy? You need almost a week to try all these Fenders.
Isn't it TOO complicated? What is in theory the better, or best Fender?
First they also neglected the acoustic market, and an acoustic Fender was CHEAP. BUT they start more and more producing acoustics, resulting in a price, becominh higher and higher.
Good to have you back Phil, hope all is well with you.
Bootlegger.
lisa1320 wrote:does anyone know how often you should change your strings or when you should???
Depending on how much you play will dictate how often to change strings. Basically when they sound flat change them.
Bootlegger.
Do not cut your neck pocket you need a tight fit between the neck & the body. Sand your neck to fit your neck pocket snug. You are not devaluating your guitar because once you took it apart and mixed the parts it was worth less than it was as an original. Sanding versus using a file will allow you more control on what you take off because you can file in an angle. Place your sand paper on a flat surface and run your neck along the grain of the wood. This will ensure even removal of material on both sides of the neck.
Bootlegger.
last_rebel wrote:The first guitar I ever owned was a junky little Korean acoustic that I bought from my cousin Bubba for five bucks, hard on the fingers and ugly too, but the sound wasn't all that terrible.
SO, here I am four years later and me and my dad want to fix it up (a daughter/father project of sorts??). He loves building and fixin' and stuff, and I like guitars so its gonna be fun. I've bought a new bridge, we're gettin' keys, nut, strings....
AS FOR THE PAINT JOB: we're scraping (well actually sanding) off the ugly yellowy finish and want to refinish it. My question is, how should I go about doing this? Is there a particular stain, finish, paint, etc. that would work well on an instrument? Maybe somebody else has done a similar project and could give me a few tips? I'm kind of wanting to make it black....
Thanks in advance,
LR
Hey Reb,
Have you any experience with refinishing wood? If not the easy way to learn is what your doing now. After you finish sanding you have to decide if you are going to use stain or paint. If you are going to use paint buy a can of wood sealer and seal the wood and sand it back, then primer, paint and gloss it. If your going to stain it do the same steps but when your going to gloss it do a hand rub finish. Stain is forgiving if you use to much you can sand it back, not enough you add more. Go to walmart and buy some Birchwood-Casey tru-oil it is used for finishing gunstocks. It will harden in about an hour, steel wool in between coats, do not do more than three coats a day so it will set up (harden). You can do thirty to forty coats and get a nice finish. You or your Father can email me if you have any questions or run into a problem.
Good luck
Bootlegger.
false, It never snows in Pico Rivera, California.
The person below me will check his finger tips on his playing hand once he reads this post to see if his finger tips are flat from play so much. (and so will everyone else who reads this post)
False
He plays it on a custom made strat (non Fender) through a Boss ME50 pedal board and a Fender De Ville with 4 10's to annoy the neighbors any time of the week.
The person below me does not have a preference of genres but loves music of many decades.
Since you were at sam ash you should have tried a Michael Kelly Patriot, if your happy with the Epi thats what counts.
Bootlegger.
Left overture-Kansas nad about 300 albums and 800 cd's after that.
Bootlegger.
True and just wactched the 2007 crossroads guitar festival dvd.
The person below me would like a custom made guitar one day.
Not so true the person below you has no preference his passion is guitar acoustic or electric.
kayharley wrote:I just got my Guild today and it sounds great...I luv it but I wanted to ask you all something about "normal" action on a new guitar.
The strings are very close to the fretboard in the first few frets and gradually get higher up the board. Can I assume that is normal?
I've only had one guitar my entire life and that one is very old so I have nothing to compare my new one to.
Although I suck at my barre chords, I did manage to get some nice sound up the board so can I assume all is well?
thanks from a newbie
Take it back to the shop where you bought it asn ask the tech to check the neck relief it may just need to be adjusted. Allot of music stores will just take a guitar out of the box and put it on the floor or wall without a physcial check.
Bootlegger.
kayharley wrote:Thank you all for your advice...
I just bought a Guild GAD30. It is small and feels very well next to my body. My hands fit the neck and it sounds nice. It is very well-made and although I had my heart set on a Martin, I will never be able to afford the kind of Martin I lust after unless I hit the lottery.
Now I have to find some strings that will help make my callouses feel better.
This is a great site..thanks
Practice, practice & more practice equal callouses.
Bootlegger.
sanguine wrote:i love the sound of mexican and spanish guitars as well as the other latin american sounds but i have trouble playing it does any one no any scales that would help me in my quest to add that sound into my bag of tricks it would meen a lot to me thanks
www.benise.com Dude totally smokes, nice guy and you really will enjoy.
Bootlegger.
Vise Evans wrote:SouthPaw41L wrote:That's called the bridge and in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing, it can and should be a fast, simple, and inexpensive repair. Before you have any work done on the guitar I would recommend that you put a fresh set of strings on your guitar. Sometimes a new set of strings is all that's needed.
Peace and Guitars,
SouthPaw41L
Yeah the guy replaced the strings but he couldnt replace the bridge so i got a refund.
There are two kinds of commonly used bridge types on electric guitars, the t-o-m (tune-o-matic) and the fixed (strat type fixed bridge) whicjh one do you have? (purposely left out tremelo units) The guy that changed you strings may not have known how to do the repair as mentioned but you also did not mention what type or model of guitar you have. As Kahuna mentoned a good tech would have told you that you had to do certain repairs and provided you with an estimate of repairs and cleaned your guitar.
Bootlegger,
Bootlegger guitars.
cytania wrote:Just picked up the Xmas 'Guitar and Bass Magazine' and they have a round up cheap Les Pauls and they give the clear Wesley LP a decent review, only downside mentioned is it's heavy but tone wise they say it's OK.
Weight equals more sustain (and usually a sore shoulder after two or three sets).
Bootlegger.
gitaardocphil wrote:If you read about guitars, and specific on the PRS site, you can choose between a PRS custom 22 and a PRS custom 24, so 1 guitar has 22 frets, the other 24 frets.
SOME QUESTIONS:
- Are there guitars having MORE than 24 frets, like 26
- What is the difference between 22 frets and 24 frets, besides the fact that you can reach higher if you have 24 frets?
Phil,
Typical for a guitar is usually 21 or 22 frets, with 24 out there also as you mentioned. The 24 fret allows a few more notes in octave (basically the same as your low end 12 frets but an octave higher).
Bootlegger.
SouthPaw41L wrote:I like a maple neck for tone and sound but for comfort and playability I prefer a Rosewood neck. I'd like to see a guitar neck that combined maple and rosewood, a rose-ple, or map-wood neck with elongated strands of each wood seperated into 1/4 ths. Molded together, shaped, sanded, with some expertise precision completion. Now wouldn't this be cool? What are your thoughts on this concept Bootlegger?
Southpaw41L,
The type of neck you are describing is common among luthiers, they will match maple & walnut strips together (usually five, maple, walnut, maple walnut& maple) to get the thickness and depth (usually 3/4"strips x 3"). This allows a stronger neck (less warpege) and a nice astetic look with the striped wood variation.
Bootlegger.
gitaardocphil wrote:I've been first of all on that site, you will find a GIANT source. Boot: isn't it so that you will hear more difference depending if they used glue, or not? Vibrations will probably be noticed. Body wood, is more important.
Phil my friend,
Both body and neck wood are important in shaping tone, the body will have more significant effect because of the mass of the body size in relation to the sise of the neck. Glue must be used to connect the finger board to the neck wood otherwise it would just fall off. You may be thinking of a set neck versus a bolt on neck on that thought.
Bootlegger.
glennbaker wrote:I just got a new Seagull guitar and I accidentally scratched the front with the metal clasp on the guitar case. Is there any way I can 'cover' the scratch or at least try to make it not so noticeable? Thanks for your help.
As mentioned above by 25Frankster depending on the thickness of your finish and also the depth of the scratch it can be rubbed out with 3M Finesse it its about $35.00 american for a quart.
Bootlegger.
Birthday wishes and blessings my friend!
With Respect.
Bootlegger.
gitaardocphil wrote:I didn't expect so much answers, but I was surprised, I only didn't play for about 10 days. The tips are still STRONGER, but before I could play very easy 2-3 hours, now 15 minutes. Because probably a lot of us suffer sometimes from this problem, I post this. I also remarked that playing ELECTRIC is EASIER than ACOUSTIC if you try playing again.
Your right Phil, the gauge of electric strings are thinner and composed of different material because of the magnetic pickup amplifacation. They don't have to produce sound from a chamber like an acoustic guitar does. Thinner strings equal less finger pressure. The more you practice the stronger your finger strength and hardness of your fingertips get. To all that practice regularly look at your fingertips from the nail side of your fingers. If you play alot your fingertips are flat.
Bootlegger.
Russell_Harding wrote:last rebel this is the truth! when i first wanted to play seriously and decided it was going to be my lifelong pursuit i lived in los angeles and there is a park where the james dean movie "east of eden" was filmed i used to sit under a tree and practice scales for 8 hours a day during that time my fingertips had sores and would bleed but i was so wraped up in learning it became a obsession, i dont recomend this approch to learning guitar but i must admit i could and still can get around the fretboard but i think a more sensible approach to learning should be pursued.
That's how I did it Russell.
Bootlegge
P-90's are single coil pickups, they do not hum like the single coil strat type pickups.
Bootlegger.
I would like to be in the position where I would be able to make other's dreams come true. I am such a fortunate and blessed man because whatever state of mind or health I am in I am always love by my GOD! He is alway faithful to me no matter how unfaithful I am to him. I have the greatest gift of all HIS Love. He gave HIS only begotten SON to the cross for me what a beautiful gift have I received!
Blessings to all,
Bootlegger.
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