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It's not hard but it's tedious.. You need patience and to do a lot of research beforehand. There are lots of things to learn even though none of them are really difficult.
  If your not experienced with this kind of stuff, I'd also recommend you carry it to someone and have them do it for you.... But if you want to learn how and have some cash to invest in the minimal tools required, there's tons of good information to be found online. You're going to have to remove the frets so a fret puller needs to be bought (or you can make one for about 5-10 bucks) You'll need a soldering iron, fretting hammer, Fret leveler (a good straight file can be used for jobs this small), smaller files for fret end dressing and crowning (if you don't want to spend the $40 for a crowning file), Sandpaper, and maybe some tightbond glue. You'd probably have $40-$50 invested not including the wire... Radiusing the fret wire by hand and can be challenging the first few times you try...   

I have the proper replacement wire here in the shop and would be happy to radius it on my machine and pre-cut the pieces and send them to ya for free plus a few spares, just in case..    

A few links  http://www.richbeckguitars.com/refretting/ http://www.frets.com/fretspages/Luthier … fret1.html http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/frets.htm

No time for a long post so I'll cheat and throw you a link http://www.how-to-play-reggae.com/How-t … c-way.html   
The main components of reggae strumming are using up strokes, strum on the & or "offbeat", muted shuffles or strums, and shortening of sounded chords... -Pix

Happy NGD Tony!  Hope you enjoy her! I sold my classical (actually it was bought for my wife) to a friend a couple years ago and have really missed it. Really fun to play and I enjoyed the softer tones. As far as strings go: Here are a few good brands to consider..Savarez, Hannabach, La Bella (Professional series) and D'Addario.

Here's a few things to consider when looking for classical strings...

Tension -- Classic guitar strings are made in different tensions. They are: low tension also referred to as moderate or light, normal or medium tension, hard or high tension. There are some other tensions....

String material -- Treble nylon guitar strings can be made with clear or rectified nylon. Clear nylon strings are extruded and then calibrated for accuracy. Rectified nylon strings are extruded and then ground to produce a string that will play in tune. They have a very fine roughness of texture. Treble strings are also made of carbon fiber and composite materials. Bass strings are primarily made of bronze wire or silver plated copper wire wound around a core of fine threads. Silver wound strings tend to last longer than bronze wound but bronze has better tone (IMO)

Also keep in mind ,if you decide to lower the action, That nylon strings vibrate more due to reduced tension and therefore usually can't be as low as steel strings without buzzing... Just be sure to take it real slow with your adjustments and you should do fine with it  -Pix

+2 on checking the humidity! Chances are that's the culprit. However, if that's fine, you may want to check your frets out. The b and e strings seem to be the first to get divets in the frets. The smaller diameter wears the frets faster. So you may need a little leveling and crowning done. If both of those are good I'd just give it a slight truss rod adjustment... For a mild buzz, 1/8 turn (counter clockwise/loosening) of the truss rod will more than likely solve the problem.  You can pinpoint the bad or high fret that's causing the buzz by simply placing a piece of paper between the fret and string and see if the buzz mutes. Try that on the frets before and after the actual fretting point to see if it's a nut issue or bridge issue. If it quitens it when placed before the fretting point (towards the nut), the nut slots are probably worn, if after (towards the bridge) than the saddle could have some wear or need to be raised/replaced... If you find a single high fret you can spot sand it with some 600 to lower it and solve the problem.

Unless you have a usp (under saddle pickup) I'd choose bone over tusq. Tusq has a more consistent density resulting in more balance sound transfer for pickups. Bone sounds slightly better (IMO) but can be inconsistent with USP's causing some strings to sound more pronounced when plugged in. I'd think you could get a new saddle shaped and installed for aprox $50-60 including some minor set-up tweaking. -Pix

Naptha works best and is safe on most all finishes. It can be purchased at most hardware stores... Ronsonol lighter fluid also works really well, seeing that it's 99% naptha.  A little heat from a hair drier will soften the glue and ease removal as well. (Don't put the naptha on the guitar before heating. It's flammable!) Heat the guitar and then apply the naptha with a soft cloth. Gently work it in circular motions doing a small area at a time.  Be careful not to get the guitar too hot when heating it... About 12 inches away in a fanning motion for a minute should suffice. -Pix

Hey Alexis! Welcome to Chordie!

I think you'd be most comfortable with a parlor, 000, 00, etc.. or possibly even a folk or GA (Grand Auditorium)body size. It's really best if you can get out there and get some hands on playing at a local music store. Try a few diffrent sizes and see what's most comfortable for you.  All we can do is guess.... But here's mine I'd consider either a parlor or 000. Here a great example of a nice sounding parlor in your budget http://www.artandlutherieguitars.com/ami.htm and here's a nice 000 in your budget http://elderly.com/also/new_instruments/items/RO07.htm  What style of music do you plan to play? Strumming or fingerstyle?

To Quote Bob Colosi... "Bone increases clarity and sustain, provides better overtones, and provides a better high to low end balance.  It provides a much more “focused† high end and punchier low end,  and is not at all shrill like some plastic saddles render the guitar.  Additionally, bone will long outlast the factory installed plastic saddles."
  That pretty much sums up my experiences as well... I have bone saddles in 5 of my acoustics, Tusq in one and am shaping an Ivory one now for the newest addition. It's the best upgrade in tone for the money that you can make (IMO).
  As far as shaping them... You can order square blanks or ones that have been radiused to match your fretboard so you have only minimal fitting/adjusting to do. If you have a spare, you can remove the one you have in now and send it to get it matched and then just put it in... It really all depends on how much you want to invest.
   You can find bones saddles at almost any music store. StewMac is a great online supplier that I use often http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Acoustic_bridge_saddles/White_Bone_Saddles.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=42 Also Bob is a great guy to deal with http://www.guitarsaddles.com/products.asp Even ebay has loads of them...

I'll get to it as soon as I can... Probably this coming weekend as a late night project I just tore a few walls out of the house and am in the process of opening up the floor plan and adding a second story...  So much for my new guitar budget      
  Glad you liked the acoustic version... You know that the song was originally done by Jack Johnson right? The BEP's just redid it... I like both versions myself Depends on the mood

Gotta run! The wife is cracking the whip and wants more progress before I rest for the day   I'll email you a link to the vid this weekend... Peace! -Pix

Every once in a while ,when I'm playing songs I don't play very often, I'll screw up and play a wrong chord... I guess I'm thinking about a similar progression that I have been playing a lot when I do it... Anyway, when it happens to me I just change songs and label it a melody I'll just work through it and add a few more songs that flow with it into the melody mix