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Welcome to Chordie!

Deadstring has got it for sure....  there are other ways, but in the first position it's either that or the barre version.  If you are just kinda new at this guitar thing, then just take it one step at a time and with time and patience it will all fall into place.  Many folks just substitute the FMaj7 for the open F because it can be tricky (frustrating) to get the index finger to nail down both the B and E strings at the first fret.... FMaj7 just leaves that high E string open.  It's a good way to get the rest of the pattern ingrained into muscle memory and then add the high F note later when your hands are a bit stronger.  Same with the barre chords, open chords first and then go to the barres when the hand is up to the extra grip needed to do it well.

Small doses of practice often and of course practice the chord changes.  Mix it up and find a few three chord songs you like, learn to use your capo to work around those chords that are "stinkers".  Above all, have fun with it!

Take Care, and Welcome Aboard!

Doug

Welcome to the Chordie Family Joan!

Lots of good folks here, and just as many opinions as I'm sure you will soon be aware.  Z has got it about right to my thinking, so I won't expound on the virtues of brands or woods over each other..... it is STRICTLY a matter of the sound that pleases you and feels comfortable to your body and the music you enjoy making (or listening to).

One truth to be aware of right off the bat, is that tossing cubic dollars at an instrument is not going to make you a better musician.
Practice and persistence along with the encouragement of your peers will get you well on the way to wherever it is you want to go with your music.  Chordie is a very good place to get the support and understanding to propel you at whatever pace you desire.

Don't be shy, post often and ask questions no matter that they might seem silly.... We've all been in your shoes and someone will certainly go the extra measure to advise you.

Again Welcome, and
Take Care;
Doug

Resistance is Futile!

The Mutation is almost complete.....  Who will be Mr. Harding's next victim??

Eventually you will all be converted.
Doug

Well now the plot thickens...  depends on what kind of recorder you have on hand.  Usually the output from the amp is going to be rated at a given wattage, which may be far in excess of what your recorder is capable of tolerating.  Now from your latest statement, I gather that you have plugged your guitar into the input of your recorder directly and were able to record the product.  If that is the case, you can pretty much be assured that the recorder is looking for a fairly low power source (as your pickups generate a fairly weak output signal, similar to what you might get from a small recording microphone).  Feed it something around 59 volts at 10 watts + and something is going to make smoke.

For Recording an electric guitar, you would usually just Mic the speaker and rock on from there.  There is a reference document on the Shure website that has guidelines for doing that effectively.  Here's the catch though, now you have to buy a mic.  If your amp has a line level output, you can generally send that directly to a recording device because the output is tapped out of the circuit after the pre-amp stage and before the power amp stage.  It would still be nice to have some sort of output limiter on that anyway for the safety of your recorder.  When in doubt, always check the specs of the equipment to make sure that the output of one device doesn't exceed the input limits of the other.

I had an old electronics teacher that insisted that everything electrical had "smoke" in it....  if we screwed up, we didn't burn it up, but just let the "smoke" out of it.  Nothing beats the sound of popping capacitors and the smell of ozone first thing in the morning!

Take Care;
Doug

SWEET!!

if you have to replace a PUP, you should check out www.stewmac.com for components and perhaps some touch up materials for those dings. For strings I would highly recommend Thomastik-Infeld JS112, get them online for the best price and I'm really sold on them for electric and acoustic for value/dollar and playability.

Have fun with your "New" Axe!!

Take Care;
Doug

Well there are no bad questions.  So I hope this is not a bad answer.....  Basically your common amp consists of two sections, the amplifier, and the speakers.  Combo amps put both in the same enclosure and are the most common.  The alternative is to have the amp "head" as a separate component and the speaker cabinet(s) in it's (their) own cabinet(s).  Some "combo" amps will serve as an amplifier only component as well and have output jacks on the back to connect to other speakers to spread the sound around, or connect to a PA system, but in many cases connecting the external speakers turns off the on-board speaker.

Typically a "head" will have more output connection options for use, including different impedance loads, or possibly 70 volt out for powered public address type horns, so they certainly have their place out there.  As to which is better, depends on how you think you will put it to use. 

Hope that was slightly clearer than mud.
Thanks for asking "neighbor".

Take Care;
Doug

Howdy Cork and Welcome to the Chordie Forums!

I'm assuming that you are looking to "spread the sound" a bit by hooking up the Peavy as another speaker to augment the one in your combo amp.  Your regent has an aux speaker out, and likely it will be an amplified output looking for a passive speaker.... your speaker has an internal amp as well but the two should be able to get along as long as you keep the amp in the peavy turned down so that it passes most of the input straight through without bumping it too hard, ie: hard enough to let the smoke out of itself.  Usually you would use a powered speaker for outputs that are coming out at line level tapped before the main amp... still 8 ohm but a really low voltage.  I'd try hooking them up and with the speaker turned down, sneak up on the speaker volume knob just until the two are balanced and see what happens.  By my thinking it should be fine, but there are more heads around here who I'm sure will chime in shortly.

Once again Welcome to Chordie!
Take Care;
Doug

Greetings and Welcome to Chordie!!

Another Ovation player here and for the most part rarely use a pick.  I've been using D'Addario Bluegrass strings with good result, heavy bottoms light tops.  Mostly because my Celebrity is the shallow body A/E and needs a little more bass because of the smaller capacity.  Recently changed to Thomastik Infeld and am really pleased with them.  Flat wound and polished smoother than the coated strings without paying too much more.  No squeak on slides and after a month holding tone & tune very well.  I think I'm going to stick with them for awhile.

As for the vibration???  are we talking fret buzz, or ??? try to describe the sound/effect you are experiencing and perhaps we can help guide you to a cure.  I've used Elixer strings and have had nothing of the sort to report, so a little more info would be good.  What brand, weight etc.

Thanks & Take Care;
Doug

The F Chord... isn't that why the Guitar Gods invented barres?  Okay and the dreaded B as well.

Just a question for BGD, you are almost to the 7th with your "long A" version of the B.... so is there some reason particularly not to go right up to the E shape and barre the 7th for your B?

I'm playing mostly acoustic these days, and go to the "barres" a lot it seems.  Mangled old fingers just don't like to have to work that hard anymore.

Take Care;
Doug

Also practice and lots of it will get you where you are heading, wherever that is.

Oh yeah, Marlon, Welcome aboard!  Semper Fi brother.

I'll take a stab at this one.....

First off I would go to the Taylor Guitar website and watch their video on changing strings, especially about how many turns around the tuning peg before the strings get tight. I like to allow a little bit more slack than those folks, but only because I like to get at least 4 wraps around on the low E and 5-6 on the rest of them.  That way when the strings tighten up the stress is not at the bend where the string passes through the post.

Then take a deep breath and tune the A string to 440Hz and the rest relative to that note.  Give them all a little stretch with your thumb and then go to your tuner to get everything up to proper pitch.  Keep in mind that your chromatic tuner doesn't care which
E you tune that bass string to, and you could have been working yourself up to the next higher E in the scale, which would surely snap the string even if it is not defective.  If you KNOW that you were in the correct octave and the things gave up, you might have a couple strings that were not tempered properly which will lead to the same result.  In that case I would wander them down to my local vendor and request replacements, or pitch a bitch to Elixer online which will likely get you a couple sets gratis in the interests of customer goodwill.

I usually use a 440A tuning fork, or my piano for that reference note (on piano, the A is below middle C) so there is less chance of being grossly out of pitch.

Bad strings aren't unheard of, and I even had a few G strings that were not tough enough myself.... all were gladly replaced by my local dealer for free, and the defectives sent back to the factory for testing.  Also check the post holes for sharp edges or burrs which can be dressed with a small Swiss Pattern File, a good magnifier will help visually check for sharp edges... they might be sharp on one side and not on the other if they weren't well de-burred after drilling in manufacture.

Take Care, & Good Luck;
Doug

I looked around as well and you are correct, 16s seem to be the bulk of what is available.  I'd think that doing the singles would get you there, but you do want to be checking how many pounds of tension it takes to get up to pitch.  Err on the safe side and tune lower and capo up rather than breaking wood!

Good Luck;
Doug

+1 for Stihl

Logged for a year or so in my "younger years".... pre-commercial thinning (taking out everything 36" and larger), and also surveyed for the Dept. of Forestry.  Ran the "snot" out of an old 051 that you HAD to depress the compression release in order to yank.... fired every time and every day!  Finally died when my "cat-skinner" drove over the darn thing with a D8.... sad day. Got replaced with a huge Mac with a 48" bar which cut well but was waaaay too heavy to haul up the grades we were working on.  Convinced me that was no job to make a career of for sure!

Take Care;
Doug