(18 replies, posted in Electric)

It can be fixed. You can do it, carefully, the way roger did his or you can clean it up and put "biscuits" in it. Not the ones for furniture but ones you can make on your own. I saw how another player did it (If I find the link I will post it) and it turned out nicely. Roger's looks better but if you like the geet then take the time to do the repair and you may like it even more.


(13 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

I hope you get that sanded down Art. Be a shame to hide that tiger stripe. Good luck!


(10 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Baldguitardude wrote:

1. Relearn A minor without using your index finger. Then the barre position will be a lot easier.


Once I happened upon this technique, while learning a song, I learned to form the E and the Am without using my index. It speeds up the barre process and helps make some of those changes from open to barre easier.


(4 replies, posted in Chordie's Chat Corner)

Wait until the snow melts, the temp rises and everyone gets out of the house. A few years ago we received two feet of snow in the high desert of Southern California. We get snow every year up there but usually only a few inches and it melts in hours. Then it took about a week to melt due to the cold snap and the ice (about 4" thick in some places as the snow would melt, puddle and re-freeze at night), lasted for about two weeks. We in the fire department were running slip and falls all over the place until the ice melted.

Enjoy the snow. Hope the ice doesn't get you!


(21 replies, posted in Chordie's Chat Corner)

Spent all of last week in Orlando at the AAU volleyball championships with my daughter. Expected it to be unbearably humid as it was in South Carolina in '05 when we visited family. Surprisingly it was less humid than in SoCal and, while warm, not hot. The Florida drivers made up for the lack of uncomfortable heat though...

Came home to SoCal where the heat was higher...and humid too! Funny, I used to look forward to the arrival of the heat as it meant the possibility of large fire potential and fun for me. Now it just means I sling steel in the heat and the only reward I get is a small paycheck.

I still prefer the heat though.

harleyjim wrote:

I been thinking about buying a Fender Stratacoustic Guitar.  Do any of you own one ?  Is it worth the money ?  Are there any problems with it ?

Don't own one but I tried one out. Sound seemed muted. As mentioned above, the action was high. Nice concept but not very good in practice IMHO.


(10 replies, posted in Chordie's Chat Corner)

On way to avoid this problem is to loop the cable through your strap and the handle of the amp. Then the cable gets pulled but no damage to amp or guitar. I learned this the hard way when I got tangled in my headphone cable and damaged the cable and the headphone jack. Now my wife is mad because she can hear me play. smile


(11 replies, posted in Electric)

Have you looked at some of the lesser priced LP copies out there? I love the looks and sound of th LP but they are too damned expensive to justify buying. I have read many posts on other forums where one has bought a copy LP, such as an Agile, and loved it. I guess if you ahve the money to buy an LP go for it but if you are trying to stretch a budget maybe do some research?


(24 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Comfortably Numb is a good Bm song to learn.

If you are like most of us you will want different (more) guitars as you play more. There is nothing wrong with holding on to both the SG's or even all three guitars. The difference in the SG's may be finish, or even electronics. You may not hear a difference in the SG pickup's but one who has a better trained ear might. The neck radius may be thicker on one or the fretboard on one may be ebony instead of rosewood. As you find out the differences you may decide, after you have sold one or the other, that you should have kept them both. And the Kramer.

I would hold on to all three of those guitars and enjoy them. Along with that Deville amp.


(22 replies, posted in Chordie's Chat Corner)

My wife hurt her neck a few years ago, requiring surgery...three years after the injury and me continually telling her to get it treated. the surgery worked...kinda. When I went off on work comp due to my back she acted like I had committed a mortal sin and no matter how much pain I was in she was always in more pain. She is kinda like that.

We (I) film my high-school daughter when she plays her volleyball matches. We post the vids on You Tube, after hours of editing (which I do), so that we can show college scouts when my daughter e-mails them. I now work (not as a firefighter anymore-forced to retire) in the family business which is located in LA. The drive is horrendous so I stay at my brothers during the week. When I get home on the weekends we usually have a tournament to attend and film then I must edit and post the vid. Despite my knowing nothing of video editing prior to our endeavor, and having to teach myself how to do it-plus filming, my wife refuses to learn how to edit, or even film. She does this often with the reasoning that "...You..." Me that is "...know how to do it..." My reply of: 'How do you think I learned?" falls upon deaf ears.

Lastly, and this is a mortal sin in my book, she hates the guitar.

Don't know why I still love her ( I too would take a bullet for her) but after 23 years I still do.

I grew up in LA...What does one say about great bands when one is from there?


(15 replies, posted in Electric)

Fire art  wrote:

I'm learning both guitars bar chords are much easer on the electric and then I try them on my acoustic I like both guitars

They do seem easier on an electric. I think it is due to the thinner neck and lighter gauge strings. Of course that is on a well set up guitar. if the set up is wrong any chord is hard.


(8 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

From what I understand the scalloping makes it easier to play lead in the higher frets as it supposedly requires a lighter touch to get the same tone as you would with a non-scalloped neck. I have never heard about it helping the tone, nor have I heard about it affecting the intonation. You don't press down further with scalloping you just don't have the (theoretical) friction of the fretboard when you are doing lead riffs on a scalloped fret. Most scalloping is done from the 12th fret and up but there are some guitarists out there (Malmsteen is one) that has guitars with all the frets scalloped.


(15 replies, posted in Electric)

I thought, once i got my electric, I would not play my acoustic that much. it turns out that I do play it often. My main guitar now is my electric ( I play alot of hard rock) but I go to my acoustic when I want to work out a song. Or I go to it when I want a different sound. Both guitars offer benefits that the other does not so i will go back and forth.

How about: Just a Moderator?


(17 replies, posted in Electric)

I have a Mustang I. Admittedly it is not a III but I like it. I got it for xmas last year and was not real happy with it. I made changes to the map banks and fiddled to no avail. Then I saw a vid of a person reviewing it. He just played the amp models as they come stock and it sounded great. I went back and re-set the amp to factory pecs and now I love it. If I want a different sound I adjust the fx knobs and I get what I want. It can be very loud too.


(4 replies, posted in Chordie's Chat Corner)

Try Ultimate Guitar.com. (sorry Chordie just trying to help out). they have a dedicated forum for guitar building which includes pics and vids of guitars being built. I agree that the hardest part is the neck, especially a set or set-through type neck. Gibson type necks are harder due to the angle of the neck and the headstock.

I, too, am thinking of building my own electric guitar and am mulling over how I want to do it. If you are going to build a certain style then follow the suggestion of Russell and get plans on the internet.

Much discussion goes into the type of wood used for the body: Mahogany, alder, ash, etc...and whether or not the type of wood actually matters in an electric. Many of the cheaper guitars are made of plywood or "composite" and cheaper woods that are covered by a thick finish. Danelctro made guitars out of Masonite and plywood. They are, now, highly desired guitars (go figure). There are those who think that the type of wood does not matter but the sound is in the electronics. It is up to you to decide how you are going to go. I plan on making my first out of pine as it is cheap and if I screw up it will not cost much to replace. If it works then I will have proved one side right and one side wrong.

good luck and post pics as you go along.


(20 replies, posted in Electric)

"...tuned up guitar turned down master switch sounds much beter thanks guys..."

I always start off with my guitar volume at 10 and my master switch down. If I need to adjust the volume on  the fly I will use the guitar volume but rarely do so. If you do indeed have a cheap guitar (as is mine) doing this will help with the buzz. Also, does it happen with all of the switch positions or just when you are using single-coil only?

PS: Just for future reference when one asks for type of guitar give 'em a name of the guitar, model number, how many and type of humbuckers. If nothing else just say: "It is a two-humbucker; three single coil; hum, single, single; etc... Just giving the make of guitar and pickup combo will help in many instances.



(6 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Mother was one of the first songs I learned. It was easy except for the C to F change in the chorus. The change was slow ue to going from the open C to the barre F. Two things helped with this for me:

Learn to just use barre chords for the song. This way you go from the barre G to Barre D, Barre G to Barre C (which is the same shape as the Barre D just on the third fret not the fifth) and the Barre f is the shame shape as the Barre G with the barre on the first fret for the F and the barre on the third fret for the G.

There is an easy open F type chord that is easy to get to from the open C (please bear with me on this tab):

e 1------------------------------
B 1-----------------------------
G 2----------------------------
D 3------------------------------
A -----------------------------
E -----------------------------

In this f chord you are only moving two fingers down from the A string to the D string an from the D string to the G string, (Sorry, got it wrong and realized my mistake later). I only mute the high E string (first string). The sound is not as clear as it would be if you actually fretted the "e" but it does work admirably in this case and makes the chord change almost instantaneous.

Give it a shot and you will find it much easier.

Also work on learning the barre shapes. If you are familiar with the notes on the fret board you will find using the barre's in place of open chords can lead to much quicker chord changes as it is easier to move the hand up and down the fretboard. I try to learn all muy songs with open chords and barre chords.


(9 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

johnspc9951 wrote:

the tips of my fingers have pads but still hurt. I found some finger tip guards or gloves. are there other more common solutions?
btw is there a way to search the forums?

First of all, not to berate but to educate: It would have been better to start another thread for this or look to see if another has been started on this subject. You will get a faster answer if you start another thread or continue one that is of the same subject. Education over.

How long have you been playing? Has it been a few weeks or a few years? If you have just started you will develop the calluses but your fingers are still going through a transition. Every time you play, and fret, you are causing trauma (yes trauma) to your finger tips. The calluses are your body's response to this trauma but that is just the start. Now the nerves have to adjust to the trauma and that will take longer.

When I started playing it took just a few weeks for the calluses to form but it took about two to three months for my fingers to stop feeling "funny". The pain stopped after a few more weeks but then my finger tips were numb under the calluses. The adjustment from that numbness took longer but it did go away.

How long it takes depends upon how much you play. If you only play for 1/2 hour every other day it will take longer. When I started I played, (and still play), about an hour a day. If my fingers hurt I set the guitar down and came back later. As with anything it will pass. Don't let it discourage you but don't play so much with pain that you stop enjoying the guitar.

I see from one of your prior posts that you have a Strat and a Martin acoustic. If you are using the Martin more than the Strat try playing the Strat a bit more. The strings on an electric don't require as much pressure so they are a bit easier on the fingers. Another thing you may try when the finger tips get tender is try working on power chords as you don't need the finger tips, but the pads of the fingers, to shape those. That way you get more guitar time without beating up on the fingertips as much.

Lastly, try tuning down half a step and/or going to thinner strings on both guitars. Tuning down half a step will not require different chord shapes but will go easier on the fingers. This is one of the first things I did to help my finger tips. Going to a thinner gauge string will help in that less pressure is required to fret a note. Thinner gauge will make the strings sound twangy but if you tune down 1/2 step it will lose some of that twangyness and, this is what I liked, it lessens the pressure required to fret even more!

NOTE: Thinner strings with down tuning may affect the neck, requiring some truss-rod adjustment to avoid fret buzz. If you choose to go to thinner strings and down-tuning, and it results in truss-rod adjustments one of us can help you do the adjustment yourself or you can pay a tech to do the adjustment along with a string change. When I went to a lighter gauge on my acoustic (from 12's to 10's) I did the adjustment myself with no problems. Took about five minutes.

Good luck.


(12 replies, posted in Acoustic)

I would strongly agree with what Jerome said. I have a Fender Mustang and ended up taking eight of the channels, cleaning them up and then, on four, adding reverb. I then add or subtract other effects as needed.

Doing this has also allowed me to use my acoustic with the amp and getting a fairly good "acoustic" tone out of it.


(9 replies, posted in Electric)

Hey steveco! I play both electric and acoustic and go back and forth between the two to keep fresh. I found out quite early in my playing, when I started two years ago, that I am not a lead guitarist so I play rhythm with just a bit of lead. I don't know enough about music theory to help and mu fingers are too slow. Sure, I do some lead riffs but only the easier ones. If they get too difficult I cannot do them fast enough.

You know what? I'm ok with that. I can play the songs I want to play and have found out that I am fairly good at developing different arrangements of songs so I put my own stamp on them. It is also nice when I get with my brother and my nephew. the nephew plays lead and my brother and I play rhythm so we can all participate in different ways.

Instead of trying to concentrate on lead switch to rhythm. You may find it more satisfying.

Good luck!

There are a few rock bands out there that may be considered "Christian" but only as far as the core beliefs go. Chevelle, as mentioned prior, is one of them. I was always under the impression that Kansas was a "Christian" band. Creed is probably the more well-known recent band that espoused "Christian" values...until Scott Stapp backslid.

My firefighter is a cousin of the lead singer of Stryper. When he was 15 (1986 or 87) he went with Stryper as they toured Japan. He told me that, at the time, Stryper acted very un-Christian while on tour.


(23 replies, posted in Chordie's Chat Corner)

"....Most parents try to do this, but where they screw up is that the don't follow through on the consequences side.  When this happens, kids learn to manipulate and get what they want, regardless of the cause and effect that they were told about.

As much as it can hurt, parents MUST follow though with "threats".  As I was trying to say earlier, this is especially effective if the consequences prevent older siblings from having their fun, because the older siblings' "peer pressure" can do a lot of your dirty work for you..."

This has been a problem in our house. My wife would threaten and not follow-up. The kids got so they would ignore her. I never made a threat unless I intended to follow up on it. Of course that caused another issue as the kids would then cry to mom and get what they wanted. This went on for some time until I told my wife that  when I was taking care of the kids (while she was at work, shopping, etc...) she was not to reverse punishments I decided upon while she was gone.

For years now the kids still tend to ignore the wife unless I step in and when I threaten punishment they know it will happen. All have learned the hard way.