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bedem wrote:gitaardocphil wrote:Good morning, at least here already in Europe.
I like to know how old you are. Not because of statistics, but more to know your budget.
Probably you still go to school??!! I think guitar school. It's important, because we speak here about money to buy another or to change parts, like pick-ups, tuners.
yes still in school...
buget is a small problem,
i don't really want to spend any money on the repair if possible,
as i am trying to save up,
for a les paul, so i hope that someone,
maybe able to give me a simple answer,
that i could try myself,
if not to difficult
or endangering the life,
of my first gutair,
for the reason of centimental value..
thank you for your help...
Rewire it. go to fender.com and download a wiring schematic for a squire and redo your wiring. use new wiring and pots, switch & caps should cost you no more than $40.00 american if that.
Bootlegger.
Bootlegger guitars.
dcgozzler wrote:I am getting back into playing after about a 10 year hiatus, and I am searching for a new electric. I play mostly blues (Allman Bros., etc.), Harder Rock (some Hendrix and Black Sabbath), and i've recently been listening to/playing along with a lot of Wes Montgomery. SO, what should I get for under $1000 that would make good tones for blues/rock/jazz? Another note - I have pretty big hands, so tiny necks dont work that well for me.
I was thinking a Strat HSS or maybe an SG.
Any opinions or info is appreciated. BTW - I have an amp already - a fender 30w DEC. Its a lot of fun.
Michael Kelly Guitars (www.michaelkellyguitars.com) check them out you can by two for the amount of money you are willing to spend. They are Korean made and very good quality. I bought the Patriot Decree black figured top just before the namm show at the end of January before they went in to production. It should be delivered next week, I get one of the first one's made. I based my purchase based upon playing a Patriot Q series (now the decree's) and the Patriot shadow & custom. Check them out, go to the website and click on the Valor custom and listen to ademptions "My Everything" your hear the Rockfield SWC pickups. I build and hot rod my own guitars that's why I chose the decree because I can put in a set of Rockfield SWC's which are not offered on the decree.
Good luck.
Bootlegger
Bootlegger guitars.
tonydr wrote:thanks guys. Pretty much like any wood refinishing job. I was thinking I might use a cherry stain and varnish/laquer.
And thanks for the link.
If you sanded through the sealer the wood will suck up all your clear and leave open pours (learned by experience). Make sur to reseal it after you do your staining.
Bootlegger.
jaygordon75 wrote:Sure! You can re-wire just about any guitar...I would think that a LP copy would be very similar to a Gibson LP...lots of diagrams available from the pickup companies.... www-seymourduncan.com www.dimarzio.com would be good places to find info...
The only difference would be the selector switches used, some use the 6 pin and others use the 3 pin, like the onme in a les paul. I prefer to use seymour duncan wiring diagrams there color coded and easy to read.www.sermourduncan.com PM me if I ca help.
Bootlegger.
Russell_Harding wrote:I keep getting a evil looking picture on chordie pages of the devil "are you going to burn in hell" I pushed print screen what next? this is very disturbing
Russell,
It is an internet quiz, possibly someone who advertises on chordie (I don't know for a fact). If anything it serves as a reminder that we all at some point or another have to choose who we are going to serve. We are given a free will and have to choose our master. I know who I serve and he don't look like that.
Bootlegger.
Yesterday's Past, since your into ghost's or paranormal and all. It reflects a life or lives now gone but still here.
Bootlegger.
Greendale wrote:I need a little direction in which pick ups to get?!?!
Anyone help me?
I love the neil young distortion screaming sound!
Thanks
It' depends on how much money you want to spend, you can buy boutique pickups for $200 to $300 american for a set. If you want distortion take your guitar to a music shop and try out their distortion pedals and see if you can get the desired effect your seeking for half the cost. Although I am always for hot rodding a guitar.
Bootlegger.
Bootlegger guitars.
As tony dr stated you can bend you neck slightly to get a desired sound, it's done all the time. But you can also snap your neck out of the pocket if your high and hard when your playing (to aggressive). As far as snapping of head on les pauls it't because of where the scarf joint is cut when they glue the 13 deg head stock to the neck. I have fixed snapped of heads on epi lps because they leaned it on an amp and it slid off and snapped the head right off.
Bootlegger.
Bootlegger guitars.
tricountygas wrote:this guitar is a american made fender telecaster highway one. the wood looks like oak! joe
More than likely it is an alder body (nothing wrong with alder) if it has wide open grain than it is swamp ash but as stated I'll bet alder. You mentioned that you stripped it to bare wood with steel wool (quite a job) you probley still have sealer on it if you went down to far you will have to reseal it be fore you paint or dye it otherwise the wood will act like a sponge and suck up all your paint, or finish. If you have any questions or if I can help p.m. me.
Good luck,
Bootlegger.
Bootlegger guitars.
shredfiend wrote:If you are looking to get a better amp, I wouldn't advise getting a stack for a few reasons. Stacks are gigantic, heavy, and expensive. I play through an old 50watt Ampeg tube combo amp. It has one 12" speaker and is loud as hell. I also built a cabinet with two 12" speakers... so if i need a little more volume, I can run three 12" speakers at once. Transporting a stack is no easy task and I highly doubt that you will ever need an amp with that much power.
I would advise buying a Fender hot-rod deville or a similar tube combo. If you spend $650 on a stack, you probably won't end up with an amp that sounds that great (it will definitely be loud though).
Good advice from shredfiend, stacks are to heavy and if your not playing large venues are not needed. You can get yourself a combo amp and run it through the board if you need more volume. As also stated by shredfiend for the amount of silver your looking to spend you'll end up with a solid state 1/2 stack, their some good ones out their but I prefer tube amp. Look in to the Fenders (I play a Deville with 410's) their good amps for the money.
Bootlegger.
vhagopian wrote:Please someone give me some inspiration! I always wanted to learn guitar and finally did somethng about it now in my adult life and been taking lessons from the ground up (music theory, practicing chords, learning strumming patterns). I've only had 6 weekly lessons so far and practice about 30 mins a day (more when I find the time). This is so difficult. But I still love it and really trying hard to learn. I know 10 chords but there is hesitation while switching and then of course you don't quite get a clean ring off the strings. You know how it goes. So I stop, look at my fingers where they're touching extra strings and slowly adjust and ring the strings again till I get it right. But man, am I doing something wrong, or is this painstaking slow way to learn the only way? I'm asking when I should realistically expect to play something that is recognizable? Is it realistic to get good enough to play a song in months or am I in this for a year before I can expect more from myself and actually play a real song with the right tempo? I can't beleive how guitarists don't even look at the guitar and position their fingers in the right place while switching chords so fast. WOW. I realize now how amazing that is.
As mentioned by "BUD" practice, practice, practice and when your tired of practice practice some more. You have to see the end of the road right now you've just started your journey it is well worth the time and efforts. Keep on practicing and don't get discouraged If you walk versus running you still get there just takes a little longer and your not as tired.
Good luck!
Bootlegger.
gitaardocphil wrote:I don't know if "modification" is a correct word.
Why a topic about modification?
- I read quit often that a guitar player changes his "new guitar"
- It is often used by musicians who own a Mexican FENDER Stratocaster.
TRUSSROD: I surf a lot on the internet, and on an online music store like:
www.musiciansfriend.com
www.zzounds.com
www.music123.com
I love to read the opinions of customers. One of the most discussed items is the US strat versus the Mexican strat. I did read more than once that people buying a Mexican strat, start trying to make an US strat, they discuss about adjusting trussrods, (WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF CHANGING, ADJUSTING THIS TRUSSROD?), also since Fender started to use "silent coils", a lot of buyers, replace the original coils by "silent coils".
In fact most buyers of a Mexican Stratocaster, value 400$, are always discussing with people having a US stratocaster, price 1200$, that they MAKE FROM THEIR MEXICAN STRATOCASTER, an US stratocaster, buy changing thinks, like coils, and claiming that they have now an US stratocaster, for 600$ just by "modifications"
WHAT IS THE PHILOSOPHY, THE PURPOSE AND ARE THEY FOLLOWING THE RIGHT TRACK?
They claim and argue that their MIM stratocaster is now identical as a MIA stratocaster, but for half the price?
Phil,
Hot rodding (ie moddifing your guitar) as opposed to modification which to me would indicate that you would be making structual changes to the apperance of your guitar, basically you say tomatoe I say tomato senario will not change an MIM strat into a MIA strat. The title refers to the country of origin where the guitar was manufactured the MIA made in America and Mim made in Mexico. The MIA higher quality parts and labor to assemble and the MIM cheaper parts and labor. Mim's are great for hot rodding because of the actual base cost approximatley $400.00 american versus the $1200.00 mentioned above for the MIA that's alot of extra parts money to make your semi custom strat. As mentioned in previous postings by other members on this topic the truss rod adjustment is for neck relief.
Bootlegger.
gitaardocphil wrote:Well Tennessee, you have a point there. You see how I learned again something.
PRS aren't they generally speaking also attached with screwed necks?
An important opinion: Screwed-in necks, like FENDERS: If you buy a squier, this fact allows you to remove the "NECK" and change it by an USA made Fender neck = cheating. I am 10% convinced that "malafide"persons, sell it like a Fender, lower in price, and except of some of us, who will check everything, and worse changed coils by Fender's newest noiseless coils?
Phil,
The high end PRS's are glued in set necks while the SE series (korean made) I beleive are bolt ons. (based upon one of the first SE Santana modles I played a long while back)
Bootlegger.
Tennessee Strat wrote:Yes they are important for the sound of a guitar:
Necks made of maple are more stabile and don't break easily. It's easier to snap off, or break a Mahogany neck and headstock. The neck consists of the basic neck material, the headstock section and the fingerboard. They do affect the tone of the guitar.
You want a neck that is stabile, doesn't warp and can be adjusted with the help of an embedded trussrod.
As gitaardocphil mentions in his post, there are several ways to attach the neck: using woodscrews and a counter-metal plate on the back of the body, glueing the neck into the neck-cavity, or attaching the neck with the help of a fitting and machine screws (Ingwie Malmsteen Fender guitar uses that neck attachment method).
They are all good ways to attach the neck. Glued-in necks are rumored to give more sustain, because the glueing really joins the neck and body into one piece.
Screwed-in necks are easy to replace and to adjust -I find that is a strong point for the Fender method. Gibson glues most of their guitar necks and that makes sense to me on a high-quality guitar, like an archtop for example. You just don't go through the trouble of constructing a high-priced guitar and then slap (screw) the neck on...maybe in China, where they're not interested in durability anyway.
Fingerboard: I personally prefer the maple fingerboards and maple necks. But I also own mahogany-neck guitars with Rosewood or Ebony fingerboards. I do seem to hear the difference in tone: Maple sounds snappy, mahogany warm, but Ebony seems just right (and is pricey...)
The thickness of the neck also influences the sound: I believe that a fat, stiff neck doesn't flex much, and the result is a dull sounding instrument. So, a little flexibility seems good for a neck. What do you think?
Play on!
T.S.
Mahogany necks usually break at the headstock because of the 13 degree angle required for inntonation on the solid body type guitars. The headstock is glued to the neck blank without a biscuit joint or dowels for added stregnth. Most headstock snap off after the guitar falls over when you (actually not you personally) lean the guitar on the front of the amp. You are correct is your statement of Maple being stronger than the softer Mahogany wood. Sustainal characteristics would actually come more from the weight or densitity of the bodywood, the neck would come into play on a neck through body or a long teton neck. Guitar player magazine ran an article (last year don't remember which month) on bolt on necks versus glued on necks finding no one advantage over the other with exception that you can change a bolt on neck if you don't like the one the guitar came with.
Bootlegger.
Tibernius wrote:Since you already made a bunch of choices building the guitar...
The only choice I made was the paint colour! 
It was a £40 kit off eBay, maple neck, alder body, all the electrics ready done (though I had to re-solder some of them). A nice guitar for that amount!
I have noticed that changing which pickup is active (using the switch) doesn't seem to make much difference, maybe the pickups are too high?
The tonal difference is not noticed because they're cheap pickups, imports with a "k" value of around neck and middle 5.2k and bridge 5.3k so no difference. As T.S. mentioned you can change out the pickups. Check out the GFS pickups, they're reasonabley priced at no more than $ 80.00 american a set. I have a 70's overwound that I am going to put back in an alder body strat. If you change the pickups change the pots, switch & caps also. I would use CTS pots, Orange drop caps & either an Oak Grisby or CRS switch good quality parts.
Bootlegger.
G S E wrote:Hi guys ,
This also sounds like it could be an intonation issue .
You didn't say if it was electric
or accoustic . Most electrics have individually adjustable
bridge saddles . You can check this by tuning that string to open E ( as mentioned , make sure your tuner is set at 440 htz ) ,then
fret the string at the 12th fret
and it should be right on E ,
just an octive higher . You can also check that harmonic but usually you won't need to . If it is sharp , you will need to lengthen the string by adjusting the saddle back toward the tail piece , or if flat , go the other way .
hope this helps ........
G S E,
Dead nuts, my summation also that the inntonation is off.
Bootlegger.
gitaardocphil wrote:http://www.imuso.co.uk/directory/guitar … e-tips.htm
This is an interesting link, it's written very accurate, for upgrading your guitar.
Strings --> Paint --> Changing neck --> changing pick-ups, with silent coils...
It creates also the opportunity to sell a SQUIER as a FENDER = CHEATING people. If I buy a 1000$ Fender, I am not going to analyse my guitar.
Phil,
The old saying goes you can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear. Your squire will still be a squire, with that said you can (in some cases and models) make a squire sound very good. Their are unscruplious people that will re decal a squire and hot rod it to sell it as a Fender out there.
Bootlegger.
SGinCYQX wrote:Never hurts to check-Can't be that many Brawleys, right?:lol:
Very nice looking and sounding guitar, though.
Brawley's were designed by Keith Brawley and made in Korea. Brawley was also the cheif designer at Fender before starting up Brawley guitars. He became the VP of buying for the Guitar center stores where he currently works and also started Laguna guitars.
Bootlegger.
badeye wrote:Hi Bootlegger, the DVD is great and really enjoy the interviews as well. I think they are polished musicians and would love it if they did a tour so younger folks could see what great musicians they are. Just finished Claptons Bio and is amazing he is still alive.Oh as well just puschased
Claptons new Crossroads Festival and also is great to watch.
Clapton is truly a guitar god.
Have a good day....Badeye.
PS> Check out "The Last Waltz" by the Band where Clapton and Robbie Robertson have a little guitar war.Its awesome.
I have that one also, I have been buying the G3 series of dvds take a look at those.
Bootlegger.
The cutaway is to play the higher register of your neck as some persons play lead on acoustics also.
Bootlegger.
Purlnekless wrote:90% image v 10% ability check my post I never mentioned ability .When I`ve bought a guitar in the past , I must admit i`ve done it on generally asthetic reasons having been influenced by certain players/bands in my youth probably mean`t that when i had the cash I would buy/ try that guitar . I`ve virtually made up my mind on looks ie 90 %, (so as a result i have dropped a few howlers , I could never get on with the neck of a Les Paul for example), you may think that does`nt leave much room ie 10% for sound and playability but if I`m paying a fair whack of cash for a model it`s virtually given it`ll play well and sound good , btw everything sounds good thru a Marshall Hi gain valve amp for me.
Good choice of guitar though RobinRivers
It's not the axe its the man (or woman) weilding it!
Bootlegger.
SGinCYQX wrote:bootleger wrote:SGinCYQX wrote:The neck pickup in my SG-EMG 81-is refusing to function properly. It's intermittently cutting in and out, and losing the signal. The other one is fine, and it happens in both my amps. What's wrong?
It is grounding out, check your connections a bare or frayed wire is touching bare metal intermittedly thats why it works then it don't. Also EMG 81's are usually made for the bridge position (although the work in either position) because the higher "k" value.
Bootlegger.
Thanks Bootlegger! I was hoping you'd check in here.
Eh, maybe it's an 85? I know I've got an 81 and an 85, but I never remember which is which.
I think I'm just going to take it to the tech at the music store where I got it-I've been too busy to tear it apart myself, not to mention I have no experience with electronics and I don't particularly want to cut my teeth on my favorite guitar.
The 81 has the EMG logo in sliver and the 85 has the logo in gold, as stated (hope that does not sound snutey) the 85 is for the neck position and the 81 is for the bridge position.
Bootlegger
bootleger wrote:gitaardocphil wrote:- A FROG ready to put a straw in his a** and blow air in that straw.
- I was told AND read, that he removes sometimes a beautiful AAA+ top, to put an "ED ROMAN" top, of course SOUNDING A LOT BETTER. He removes beautiful GIBSON tops to put his own top.
CRITICS: ALL THE BIG BRANDS JUST WANT YOUR MONEY, HE WANTS TO TRANSFORM YOUR IDIOT FENDER, GIBSON into an ED ROMAN GUITAR.
WHO KNOWS OR HAS EXPERIENCE WITH ED ROMAN?
Ed Roman started in Pennsylvaina I believe, in the beginning he made his own and ghost build (subcontracted for the big name brands) for many factories. What Ed use to do is take off the tops and re do the neck tetons on the glued on neck to get better sustain. Ed later on moved to Las Vegas and was bought out by investors and continued with the company while the investors sucked the life out of the company. Last I heard Ed left the company and it was closed and the property was sold to make room for a large auto dealership. Ed was going to regroup and start building again, this time without investors.
Bootlegger.
Just checked the web and Ed Romans is still open (per the website) I'm still sure Ed is no longer with the company.
Bootlegger.
gitaardocphil wrote:- A FROG ready to put a straw in his a** and blow air in that straw.
- I was told AND read, that he removes sometimes a beautiful AAA+ top, to put an "ED ROMAN" top, of course SOUNDING A LOT BETTER. He removes beautiful GIBSON tops to put his own top.
CRITICS: ALL THE BIG BRANDS JUST WANT YOUR MONEY, HE WANTS TO TRANSFORM YOUR IDIOT FENDER, GIBSON into an ED ROMAN GUITAR.
WHO KNOWS OR HAS EXPERIENCE WITH ED ROMAN?
Ed Roman started in Pennsylvaina I believe, in the beginning he made his own and ghost build (subcontracted for the big name brands) for many factories. What Ed use to do is take off the tops and re do the neck tetons on the glued on neck to get better sustain. Ed later on moved to Las Vegas and was bought out by investors and continued with the company while the investors sucked the life out of the company. Last I heard Ed left the company and it was closed and the property was sold to make room for a large auto dealership. Ed was going to regroup and start building again, this time without investors.
Bootlegger.
boxer wrote:Hello all my chordie friends.
Some of you know that I have recently had a pretty bad experience, which knocked me sideways completely. I want you all to know that I am now feeling a lot stronger and a lot better.
I really value the friends that I have made here, I haven't met anyone personally, but hope to one day.
Thanx esp, to Lena, James, Roger, Old Newbie, Ken.
It was the bottle of wine that made it all come out!!!!
Thanx Moi x
Boxer,
Welcome back, hope you stay strong and know that your never alone. You mentioned a fine lot of friends above just reach out and they will be there for you.
Bootlegger.
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